When visiting Bayonne in the Aquitaine region of France you can’t help notice the garlands of red chili peppers drying in rows in front of half-timbered houses.

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The chillies absorb the sun before being pulverised into powder. Introduced in the 16th century by Basque seamen, the chili has been cultivated in the region of Espelette since that time. From the 17th century, Bayonne was the leading chocolate producer in the area, and the Espelette chili was first used to add spice to some chocolate recipes. More aromatic than hot, it is regarded as a kind of pepper; it was used in simple dishes such as omelettes, fried eggs, grilled sardines, and in classic recipes for piperade (a vegetable dish of green bell peppers, tomatoes and onions), axoa (lamb stew), or marmitako (tuna and potato casserole). It also brings out the flavour of cheese made from goat’s milk or ewe’s milk. An annual pepper festival is held in Espelette on the last weekend of October.

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