Wonderful Mushrooms

published by Curt Guillory on Aug 28, 2009

Two excellent mushrooms dishes and how to prepare them.

When considering ingredients in cooking, most ingredients fall into one of two categories.  They are either a flavor lender or a flavor receiver.  For example, celery imparts its flavor on whatever else is in the recipe.  Potatoes however receive the flavor of its neighboring ingredients.

One of the exceptions to this general rule is mushrooms.  Mushrooms have a distinct flavor of their own; all the while they accept surrounding flavors.

Image via Wikipedia

There are over 38,000 different varieties of mushrooms worldwide.  A good rule to follow is that if a mushroom is not commercially raised and sold, do not eat it.  Here is a very informative website on edible mushrooms.

The proper cleaning cooking techniques for mushrooms are as varied as the little fungi themselves.  There are many myths about how to prepare mushrooms as well.  Many years of professional cooking has helped me to dispel these myths.  Such as the myth that you never wash mushrooms before cooking, because they will absorb too much water.  Nothing could be further from the truth. 

Try this little experiment if you will. 

Take a pound of button mushrooms and verify their weight on your scale.  Now wash them in cold water one by one with the cap side under the water stream.  Rub the dirt off of each one and place in a colander.  Now reweigh the mushrooms.  You should find about a one to two ounce increase in weight.  In the environment of a hot skillet, this increased water content is negligible. 

Another common misconception is that each variety of mushroom must be cooked to an exact time in order yield the perfect flavor and texture.  Over cooking must be avoided like the plague.  This is a load of mushroom food.  In other words, it’s crap. 

Cook your mushrooms to your liking, or not at all.  You get to make the call here.  Make sure however, that when sautéing you use a good amount of fat.  Mushrooms are like little sponges.  Whether you use olive oil, butter, or any other fat, the mushrooms will absorb them. 

All of the above being said, there are two recipes that I will share with you which really showcase the wonderful flavor of mushrooms. 

The first is a simply mushrooms sautéed in wine.  Nothing could be simpler. 

Ingredients

  • ½ lb. of white button mushrooms (sliced),
  • 1/3 cup of olive oil,
  • 1 cup of dry white wine (chardonnay or similar),
  • Kosher salt to taste,
  • fresh ground black pepper to taste,
  • 6-8 fresh chiffonade basil leaves,
  • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme.

Chiffonade is a fancy French cooking term which simply means to take the basil leaves and stack them one on top of the other.  Next roll the leaves along their width.  You should have a something that looks like a short green pencil.  Now simply thinly slice the roll which will yield thin long strips of basil.

Method

  1. Place a large (10″ or larger) skillet over medium to high heat, and add the oil.  This next step is very important.  Wait until the oil is hot.  You can tell when it is hot as it will shimmer and move in the pan.  When you see the first wisp of smoke, add the mushrooms.  Immediately shake the pan or stir the mushrooms in order to coat all of them with oil.  You may have to add an additional tablespoon or two of oil if the mushrooms begin to stick to the bottom of the pan. 
  2. Stir the mushrooms every 2 minutes or so until they turn brown and begin to wilt.  Add the wine, salt and pepper.  As the mushrooms cook they will release their moisture.  This will collect at the bottom of the pan along with the wine.  Continue cooking and stirring occasionally until about half or less of the liquid remains. 
  3. Now is the time to add the fresh herbs, and stir the mixture to evenly distribute.  Take the time to enjoy the aroma of the intense basil and thyme. Cook for one more minute, and then remove to a plate or bowl.  Take the time to taste a mushroom and adjust the salt and pepper is necessary.

This dish is so good that is can be enjoyed alone, or as an accompaniment to an entrée.  These mushrooms are wonderful along with a grilled steak. 

The next dish is a utility dish.  This is to say that it is used to introduce flavors to another dish, rather than be eaten alone.  It is called duxelles.

The recipes for duxelles vary greatly.  This one will be a basic preparation.  Please feel free to change it as your tastes see fit.

Ingredients

  • Full pound of mixed mushrooms – combined equally white button, crimini, chantrels, oyster, baby bellas, or any other mushroom you like.

Method

  1. Chop the mushrooms quite finely.  Please take a word of caution on using a food processor.  If you are not careful, you will produce raw mushroom soup if you over process the mushrooms. 
  2. Next, follow the above recipe for sautéed mushrooms making the following changes.  First you should reduce the heat to about a third of your stove’s capacity after you have added the wine.  Cook the mixture until no flowing liquid remains, and it is in a paste consistency.  Use dried herbs in addition to the fresh herbs in order to establish a fairly strong herb flavor.  Care should be used here as you do not want the herbs to dominate the dish.  You want them only to have a strong presence.  Allow to cool completely.  Duxelles can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks, or frozen to as much as 6 months.
  3. Use your duxelles to stuff pork tenderloin, or chicken breast.  Whether roasted, grilled, or cooked any other way, the duxelles will add a new depth of flavor to these meats.  Another use is to add a little pork or chicken stock to the duxelles making a wonderful sauce for any entrée. 

There is no perfect or best way to cook mushrooms.  Either sautéed, fried, stuffed, braised, smoked, raw, or any other way, mushroom are a wonderful addition to any meal.  The only possible exception may be ice cream, but I’m open to suggestion.

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